SS17 is upon us, clothes are being pressed and invites sent out as the anticipation grows to see what wonderful creations this season will bring. For my team of DFMA Pro-Graduates and the start of our season consisted of tick sheets, washing brushes and stocking up on last minute essentials we couldn’t work this week without. With packing down to a fine art, mood boards sent and the team raring to go; the excitement was building among the “glam squad”.
Designing these looks came from lots of mood boards and careful research into the staple looks for catwalks. One thing that really stuck is how flawless all the skin is. The glow that looks as if it’s from within, soft as a peach and faultless. This is why I ask all of my MUAs to really take time over this first aspect of application.
Top tips for catwalk ready skin:
• I like to take 5 minutes to give each model a mini face massage, it helps relax them and create an environment that is calm amongst a stressful day.
• Always use a moisturiser for specific skin types, I love the NARS skincare range as it is hypoallergenic, super nourishing and has a cream for every skin type.
• Cover any blemishes and work products into the skin before foundation application.
• Use a good foundation that you can build on, covers well and is light on the skin. My favourite foundation to use is the DFMA HD foundation; it comes in four colours and a white for mixing. It is everything you look for in a product: wearable, mixable and has a scent that gets comments from everyone I use it on. In my time of being a makeup artist, I have yet to find a client who doesn’t ask after it. Applying lightly still, gives a lot of coverage, but leaves just the right amount of glow without looking oily. As well as all of this, one of its best features is how little you need to cover a full face. A true catwalk champion.
Whilst each look this year is varied and challenging, it gave me a chance to create something that each member of my team could be creative with. Ranging from a smokey eye and classic red lip with a twist, pops of colour with tribal highlights or apricot tones; I have really asked the girls to jump out of their comfort zones and mix it up this season.
With a 10am call time and a briefing from me at 10:30am, the team and I set up with enough makeup to open our own store (If this is not makeup goals I don’t know what is!).
Models started arriving a few hours later and we created gorgeous apricot eyes with dewy skin and highlights for the first show. Around 5pm is where things started heating up in the makeup department with designers making last minute adjustments – including myself being pulled off to do a tattoo cover-up and go to talks and checks – the team had to work hard to make sure all the models were ready for their call. Looks were changed at a moments notice, as they always are in fashion shows, with a mermaid inspired theme being added with stunning blues and glitter alongside nineteen-twenty’s lip in a dramatic matte black. The girls did an incredible job at dealing with such a fast paced environment that came with some challenges; where else would you be asked to cover up a stretched ear hole!
Season after season we see flawless makeup that could be classed as works of art, take Pat McGrath’s innovative ideas, how she always adds a fresh twist on a classic look; her work for Dior on the autumn/winter 2010 is one of my favourite examples of how catwalks offer a chance to be creative and keep looks from the past current and upbeat. With all these artists paving the way and setting such high standards I am so pleased that DFMA taught us the key skills that prepare us for the hectic, ever-changing world of fashion week and can let us follow in the footsteps of the worlds best MUAs.
Blog post by DFMA Graduate Emily Bliss.